As another Lame Cherry exclusive in matter anti matter.
In all matters of God's Holy Ghost Inspiration, I do try and plot things out, but the rest of the time even plotting things out, I am marking new horizons where no two legger has gone before.
I only had a theory in putting a barrel stove into our cellar. I thought it would work and with Inspiration I have recorded that it does indeed work with some Lame Cherry invention, in dealing with draft for almost 20 feet of metal pipe.
There was one thing that I overlooked and never thought of. When we put running water into this old shack, yes I grew up without running water just like Festus Hagen, the plumber ran the copper pipes from the water inlet to the the kitchen which is about 20 feet and it takes some time to get hot water out there. The bathroom has it in seconds but that is right above the pipes.
The one thing I neglected is I put the barrel stove under the pipes which are copper and they conduct heat famously. There was no other place to put the stove as the chimney pipe was long enough and I was not putting hooks and curves in the thing and the other side of the house has too much there in gas hook ups and water, so that left the east side, and I needed to dig out the cellar for an internal door there anyway.
I thank God it all worked. The 8 inch pipe is close and would make insurance companies cringe in my walking by it, but I always have a canvas jacket on as I am working down there, so I never get burned.
The copper water pipes though, one has the lead joint right above the stove has made things interesting from the start. Oh I can get this stove humping on heat output, most times not by my design, but wood has different ideas along with hurricane winds sucking draft, so I get some very good burns, and you do need some heat to get a stove like this going, so it will ignite the wood to more than an oxygen starved yellow flame.
I usually if things get to hot, as I check allot, go up and run some water in the kitchen. That only works until the hot water from the water heater gets there, and that is something I have to watch with care as I do not want lead solder melting as a huge problem.
I tried putting a metal heat shield next to the pipes. It got too hot and the pipes did too. I tried wrapping them in insulation.........got hot or worse hot. I finally was told in the 3 year of this project, by the Holy Ghost, "Get the heat shield down closer to the stove." That of course made sense and Richard of Richard and Stephanie confirmed that is how to deflect heat.
I am typing this in the first trial run of this on February 16th. I have had a good problem in we have kept the house thermal signature warm by timely burns and better weather this year that I have had problems in the cellar gets too hot too fast.......meaning hot pipes.
Last year I had to do two burns before I opened the one door. This year, after the preliminaries, I get about half a burn completed and the thermometer behind me is going over 70 degrees, so that means I have 80 to 90 degrees on the ceiling so it is time to open the doors and let the heat escape to the living quarters.
The pipes remained cool, until I got some big friendly wood products that started on their own I was prepping by the door ignited. Then the pipe got pretty warm. I ran some water and voila, all was cool again
In nigger rigging this, I made it pretty in lining it up. I think I could put it over 2 inches, but I will not, as the joint is cool, but the heat is two inches out from the joint in the copper pipe.
The point in this million dollar knowledge is to teach you for your necessities. My heat shield was given to me by JYG. It is just a cover for a trailer house type natural gas furnace that was kaput. The slots for heat on the furnace, work good in dissipating heat up and away from the pipes. I have a slight kant in this to the front so the heat will move forward toward me, and it does. The biggest heat source is the chimney pipe as it comes up a foot toward the pipes. This is no longer an issue with JYG's heat shield.
I could have used electric fence wire and nails, but I wanted something looking better as I do to much shit and shinola stuff being poor. Those little eye hooks cost me 12 dollars for four of them. Total for chain and cup hooks was 32 bucks, so this was not cheap or free like JYG's stuff but I will tell him how much I appreciate it as it is working as the theory came to mind.
I could not be more appreciative to God. He gave me a Coleman flashlight so I can see inside the stove before lighting up, so all is arranged correctly. It cost a dollar and had batteries in it. The last one was 50 cents, and did not work with my batteries in it. I did not take it back as I figured the light bulb was worth 50 cents.
Now I have a good barrier for heat which will provide me "just in case" margins which is good to have. I think this shield actually holds a bit more heat by the stove, no it is allot of heat, so the stove burns better on lighter loads. At least that is the outlook at the moment. This thing is almost like having another barrel stove on top as the kits come that way, but this is more simple to deal with.
I was going to get some copper or steel tubing and make like a heat collect on top of the stove, to store heat, but now I am thinking this might be a lite alternative to that idea. Have lots of ideas on that too, but this is about the heat shield and I am very well pleased with how it is operating.
Nuff Said
agtG
