As another Lame Cherry exclusive in matter anti matter.
Now that my supply of chainsaws is adequate, thanks to Richard & Stephanie in the Echo, cut Redwoods in Half as she is a big girl, I can now be generous with you, my competitors, in explaining what small saws I rely on, meaning for cutting 8 inch down wood and limbs.
I did not set out on this by choice, as the mother in a local hardware store came home with, when I was a youngster a Poulan 2000 chainsaw. I had only run my Beloved Uncle's Stihl which had a 12 inch bar, so that is all I knew of them.
It was not until I, not being careful with wood chaff, got the 2000 in the non start mode, that in watching the Tractor Whisperer get it running that I began understanding chainsaws.
I have made mistakes in this, as I did purchase a non running Poulan 2520, I think it is as I could not find any 2000's. .Big mistake as the Poulan line in the 1800, the Craftsman and the 2000 are the same type of saw. Perhaps older saws of different brands like McCulloch or whatever will work....I have no idea, but I can tell you why I bother with this model.
You can read online all the snob bullshit of the elite chainsaws who say that Poulan make shitty saws. I would think the first Poulan we have in being a 2000, from that period, in running close to 25 years is not such a bad saw. Uncle's Stihl did not outlast him.
The 2520 is the newer version, with a primer bulb you pump to get fuel. If you take these things apart in the cover, you soon discover it has a cable for the throttle, and that there are a number of fuel hoses which are going to have to be replaced. That is added bother, and here is why I use the 2000 series.
The 2000, has 2 screws by the choke cover, so you take them out, and immediately you see the filter up front and the gaping hole of the carburetor. This is just like opening the hood on a 1970 Ford. You immediately are at the parts which matter. The matter part is to put some gas in the carb to see if the thing will fire up for a few seconds on that gas.
I am not cutting things on my front lawn. I cut things aways from where we live. I have trouble as chainsaws do make trouble for you, and I have to take them apart, not lose a bunch of screw or have to take hoses off. When I take the 2000 apart, I can prime the fuel line by the carburetor by putting in some gas and most times things will work itself out while running, which is the diaphragm in the carb being the problem as ethanol makes them less flexible. You can restore them if you start using only regular 86 octane gas.
I can fix these chainsaws. There is not any need for a service counter costing me money like a modern computer in a car. This is old Ford stuff, what I see is what it is, and that is what I know what is going on in getting at what I am looking at.
I have done carb jobs, run new fuel lines, put in new filters and Gaytube helps out in starting things out. I do a great deal of airline blowing at times, as even that original 2000 got something so small in it, that I could not see it. I kept running air through it, and it finally fixed what was not seen, in it kept running. Remember these are chain saws, full of wood dust. You can not change that problem.
My neighbor has a lovely and expensive chainsaw from the farm store. His first words were, "Yes it sometimes floods when it is hot". Just what I love is standing there tired, and having a saw flooded, a pile of shit to wade through to get to the carb to try and get it running. Not with the 2000, I can usually get that bitch running in a few minutes.
Now I know this Poulan is not Paul Bunyons lumberjack chainsaw. If I was doing that kind of work, I would expend the big money and get the big saws. I though now have 3 of these 2000's for less than what I would pay for one new saw. I take care of the saws an they will last. That means oil in the gas for lubrication and oil for the bar for the chainsaw with maintaining air filters that disintegrate.
I will get this 2520 running with a carb which I have with the kit. I have an old Homelite which I got from JYG that will also appear for the bigger stuff when I get the time to tear it down as they are more complicated. I can do this by taking the covers off and getting gas into the carb, to figure things out. Nothing is worse than pulling your ass off on a rope for a chainsaw that does not run. Like all things it is fuel and spark. If you got fuel then it is the spark and those contraptions you just replace too.
I'm hopeful for the day those nut fucks from California get all their engine banned. I want to camp out on Ebay and get a number of deals on the kinds of engines that I want, not this new ass shit from China, but the older American made stuff, that I can get running.
The nice part about my buys is, the original saw is in great shape. The other one is too pretty to use at looks brand new. The one I just got looks new too, but is more used in bar and has that humid look on the lines from being down South for it's life. They all have fantastic compression and will continue to have as I use Pennzoil 2 cycle, one cap per tank. That is a bit richer than they say, but I do not need to buy premix oil or special chainsaw oil, as these 2000 series just dine on this like it is a farmer's breakfast.
Would I get more 2000's? Yes if the price is right and are not some shit pile like I do see online covered in filth or some bastard charging shipping up the ass while thinking a saw that does not work should have an opening price that was more than what the saw sold for.
Anyway that is my reasoning and my secret. A Poulan with 14 inch bar and 52 points on the chain. Het up the shack for 3 years and is going to be doing more work in the meltdown.
Nuff Said
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